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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.